53 Nelson Street,
Auckland Central
Auckland,
1010

(09) 302 2665

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4 out of 5 stars

In what was once a foundry, then more latterly a nightclub, is Toto, an Italian restaurant that has long since divested itself of soot and neon. Instead there is a warm and homely atmosphere, right down to the woodpile in the corner and the sepia pictures of Naples.

But this isn’t just an Italian restaurant serving the regional classics. This is modern Italian cooking, and how. The menu read like a novel describing flavours piled one on top of another until they seemed sure to topple over from weight of expectation. Take for example the “pan roasted pinenut crumbed prawns on artichoke caponata and green pea volute” or “homemade pimento ravioli filled with mixed pecorino cheese and chickpea tossed Neapolitan escarole with buttered anchovies”. Poetic but difficult to decipher.

We started with the trio of bruschetta but were disappointed to find the bread burnt. However the subtle perfection of the Jerusalem Artichoke soup with Salmon bocconcini ($18.50) more than made up for it.

Buoyed by the soup I chose to follow with the risotto of the day ($23.50) – with an odd clash of flavours – artichoke and crayfish. My companion pitched for Maori potato gnocchi with oxtail, saffron sauce ($24.50). These dishes were like mission statements - hearty Italian food with imaginative twists and complex flavours. There were traditional main dishes and pizzas that would appeal to the less adventurous but the treasures were in the pasta menu. And the dolci. We shared Budino Caldo al Cioccolato, divine chocolate fondant finished with poached pears and hazelnut ice cream ($14.50) and it was superbly matched with a delicious Passito di Pantelleria. If you do nothing else at Toto have a sticky with dessert.

The wine list is impressive – a good range of Valpolicella and Super Tuscans. The waiter was adept at matching wines to our meals and whims, and his service was flexible and discreet. This is modern European cuisine in the heart of the CBD, but with the fire burning and a view of the garden Toto has a real intimacy.