The Mulberry, nestled in the heart of the idyllic Mt Eden village, has recently re-opened for business after a face-lift and re-brand.

Previously known as The Mount, this gastro style bar and restaurant remains spilt over two levels. Downstairs is predominantly still a bar and the perfect option for those wanting to unwind with a wine or beer and indulge in a cocktail with friends. Venture upstairs and you will notice the difference from The Mount to The Mulberry.

The seated restaurant is found to the right from the stairs and is quite separate from the upstairs lounge bar area which can be used for private functions or a more personal option to the downstairs public bar. For the full dining experience you would want to head into the restaurant, but food can be ordered and eaten at the lounge bar too.

The refurbishment during February 2010 of the restaurant area works well and gives The Mulberry an edge over the premises previous use of space. There’s only limited seating, so booking is probably advised on Friday and Saturday nights. While the dining area is intimate, the raised alcove completely covered in Victorian era wallpaper from floor to ceiling towards the back is the best option if it is privacy you are after.

My partner and in-laws ventured to The Mulberry only a week after it had re-opened. I wasn’t surprised to find it busy both downstairs and up because there has been a licensed bar on the corner of this village strip for ages and is always well used by locals. However, I was surprised at the popularity of the dining room which, under the guidance of executive chef Sal Grant, is a little more upmarket than the usual fare found in a bar-restaurant.

The dining room is the essence of The Mulberry and what owners want its reputation built on. Grant was previously head chef at VBG in Parnell and was trained in the 1990s at Mikano. His focus is to use local produce and flavours while also allowing his dishes to be somewhat influenced by his global experiences. The result is fine dining with a high end price to match.

Our party ended up creating a little seafood corner with two of us going for the baby salmon accompanied by muscles and a slightly buttery sauce ($33 each). The remaining two settled on fish of the day ($30) with homemade chips and spinach – but after much discussing between us, our waitress and the kitchen we were allowed to swap on portion of spinach with salad. An extra side of roast potatoes and garlic rounded out the order.

While waiting for the food we shared a local drop of sauvignon blanc from the Marlborough ($40, bottle). The wine list features a wide variety of local New Zealand wines and a splattering of overseas bottles, but you would be hard pressed not to find something to suit your meal and taste buds.

My salmon came as a whole baby salmon, rather than a fillet, which I’d never experienced before but rather enjoyed. It just meant my inexperience at filleting without picking up the bones was tested. Taste wise there was nothing wrong with any of our meals, but there was also nothing to overly wow us.

Staff were attentive but not overly engaged and when it came time to settle the bill we encountered a slight teething problem. First the wrong bill, then momentarily undercharged before a nervous employee quickly rectified the mistake.

Overall The Mulberry will do well. It offers something a little more upmarket and there will always be thirsty locals and a younger crowd willing to drink and eat here in Mt Eden.

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