So you think Kingsland’s best restaurants are in the main shopping strip near the train station? Er, no so fast… A few hundred metres down New North Rd in Morningside you’ll find one of the best little neighbourhood restaurants to open in Auckland this year.

No surprises for guessing that Sake Bar 601 – the name refers to the street number – is a Japanese restaurant. What is surprising is just how downright enjoyable this place is; a combination of quite terrific food and warm and friendly service.

When we booked for dinner a few days prior, we were disappointed that all the tables – three actually, it’s a very compact place – were already reserved, and we’d have to sit at the counter. In reality that’s easily the best place to be parked; looking into the tiny open kitchen and having a conversation with the wisecracking, surfing Hiroshi Miyata as he works his magic.

The magic begins with a couple of curried potato Japanese croquettes which we enjoy as a complimentary amuse bouche. Armed with a draught Sapporo beer ($7) and a well-priced Windmill Chardonnay ($8), we move onto a large plate of sashimi market fish ($20). Tonight’s selection is salmon, kahawai, terakihi, kingfish, and scallop topped with fish roe. It’s superbly fresh, and just maybe the best sashimi I’ve ever had. Hiroshi pops his head across the counter and asks if everything’s OK. With mouths deliciously full, we can only nod in agreement.

We’re treating the menu as more a selection of small plates, and move on to share tempura prawns ($11.50) and teriyaki chicken ($23). We’re reminded that normally the prawns come in plates of three, and to avoid an incident over the third prawn we should order a fourth. It’s a wise recommendation as the prawns are beautifully light and not at all greasy. Especially the fourth one. The teriyaki chicken is served with a selection of small sides, including freshly made tuna and apple slaw and creamed pumpkin. Even after the chicken is all gone I’m still aimlessly trying to pick up the last of the teriyaki sauce with chopsticks. The wiser-than-me Hiroshi comes to my rescue with a spoon. Dessert selections are limited, but we enjoy the simple pleasures of tempura apple with blueberry ice-cream ($6), and Hiroshi’s own creation, a ‘moffle’ ($6). He explains it’s a waffle made with mochi, Japanese rice cake. Playfully decorated with chocolate rain, the freshly made ‘moffle’ is warm and crunchy, and the perfect end on a cold winter’s night.

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