365 Dominion Road,
Mt Eden
Auckland,


(09) 623 3140

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We’re sitting in an elegant space in a slightly overlooked part of Dominion Rd, and our taste buds have just been hijacked by the sensations of the ocean. It’s all there – the salty, briny spray, supremely fresh fish being unloaded, and the cry of gulls. Kind of remarkable really that all this is contained in a delicate frozen foam that’s just a minor part of one of chef Michael Meredith’s entrees.

We’ve been looking forward to experiencing Meredith’s restaurant since it opened in late 2007, and with the restaurant full on a Wednesday night, it’s obvious lots of other Aucklanders are also fans of Meredith’s culinary alchemy. Setting the scene with Moa’s excellent Noir Dark Lager, and a glass of Tattinger, we’re hoping for a meal to remember.

The sea-infused sorbet accompanies Carol’s entrée, Yellow Fin Tuna with Tio Point oysters and wasabi caviar, cucumber and tomato ($28). It’s a masterpiece of balanced flavours with the tuna seared simply, and the oysters floating in a gossamer-light tempura batter. I begin with Ostrich with Beetroot, Goat’s Cheese, Figs and Coffee Sour Dough ($26). The dark meat is thinly sliced carpaccio-style, and as tender and delicate as sashimi. Wafer-thin sour dough provides lots of hands-on interaction to scoop up the diverse flavours and influences.

It’s in the mains where Meredith’s skill becomes even more apparent. Starting with a simple template – for example, Spanish flavours or Asian flavours – the final creations are a stunning blend of the rustic and refined. It takes a very special chef - confident in his knowledge the world’s cuisines – to pull of this kind of trick.

Carol teams a Sleeping Giant Chardonnay with Bluenose Fish with spanner crab, peppers, jamon, squid ink and artichokes ($38). Mediterranean is the obvious culinary influence, and the food conjures up a sleepy coastal fishing port in Spain or Croatia, but with an effortless sophistication. My Pork Belly and Fillet with carrot marmalade, black pudding and cinnamon is redolent of Asian flavours, with the delicate pork infused with star anise and cinnamon. A spicy, semi-sweet Alsatian Pinot Gris from Gustav Lorentz is the ideal wine match, and a bowl of fresh beans dressed in garlic and sesame flavours ($9) also provides complementary Asian flavours.

Dessert effortlessly maintains the earlier highpoints with Carol’s Cinnamon Brulee with Strawberries, Rhubarb and Apple ($17) layering flavours that unfold gently on the tongue. The brulee only reveals its cinnamon base in a final, lingering, silky finish. My dessert again brings back favourite culinary memories with my Carrot Sponge with Black Sesame, Vanilla Bean and Saffron ($14) somehow triggering thoughts of lazy days eating Thai sweets in South East Asian markets.

It’s been a quite remarkable meal, and if you’re at all interested in exploring exciting and innovative new directions in food, Meredith’s is a must visit destination.