2 out of 5

What a difference a move makes... but not in a good way.

I used to love Gina's Italian Kitchen. Seriously love it. Yes, you were crammed into a dark gloomy cul-de-sac of a room where you'd be lucky to make out a word in twenty of your dining buddies but hey... that was all part of the fun. The food almost came second.

Now having moved a few doors down the road, it's plunged headlong into upmarket. Gone are the dark reds and crammed tables, replaced by a more open space and more industrial 'wood and metal' interior. All very nice to look at but it's not Gina's. In fact, it's not even very Italian. And that really is the problem.

Firstly, it's now super bright thanks to the industrial lights adorning the ceiling. This gives the dining area an almost restaurant chain-like feel. No more dark corners. Hmph. Also, due to the rear entrance and long thin reception, upon arrival our party of 10 had to wait half in and half out the door. And wait we did. Double hmph. Once seated, there seemed to be staff to burn, but throughout the evening preference seemed to be given to shirtless birthday serenades rather than consistent service.

The food was good, but not memorable. The calamari entree is still one of the best in Auckland but the mains we had ranged from tasty (Pansotti con Pollo) to middling (a passable Diavolo pizza) to bordering on bland (Papardelle con Funghi - two types of mushrooms, truffle oil, walnuts and cheese and yet no flavour?). The desserts were also a decidedly mixed bag. It's also pretty pricey - anything less than $120 for 2 and you're doing well (or going hungry).

For all the money lavished on the new interiors, this is not the Gina's I remember and it's all the more sad for it. Maybe in a few years once the new premises have bedded in and scruffed up a bit, it may start to resemble its former self, but for now it's a makeover that has ripped the soul out of what the restaurant used to be. I want my old Gina's back.

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