311 Remuera Road,
Remuera
Auckland,
1050

(09) 522 6688

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4 out of 5

Restaurant trends can be amusing. Two decades ago Auckland eateries were clamouring to call themselves “bistro” or “brasserie”, and now they’re all becoming “gastro bars”; a phrase which sounds like it’s inspired by some horrible stomach illness.

However, there were no reasons to be negative when we arrived at Banque one Friday evening. In fact, the first word that popped into my mind was a throwback: “bistro”. These days, that word still connotes smart, reliable food in a casual atmosphere.

Decorated in sleek dark wood, Banque’s medium-sized room—with wicker chairs around line and paper-topped tables—was only about half full.

There seemed to be voluntary segregation: twenty-somethings lounged in the covered smoking area out back; and Remuera gents and dames dined inside.

While there was piped music in the bar area at the front, refreshingly, there were no speakers in the dining room.

The menu also spoke bistro: straightforward, dependable flavours; surely an expression of proprietor Dominique Parat’s French roots and his years of crowd-pleasing experience at three GPK restaurants.

Unfortunately, it was a hot and sticky summer’s evening, and the menu made no nod to seasonality.

My chicken fricassee ($26.90) boasted a good helping of white meat on the bone which had been poached in brown stock and garnished with mashed pumpkin, little onions, baby chard leaves and a sprinkling of vibrant gremolata (a mixture of parsley, garlic and lemon).

On the advice of the waiter, my companion upgraded her spaghetti with crab meat from a starter to a main size ($28.90). It got its dominant flavour from a generous portion of shredded meat. Chilli peppers, semi-dried tomatoes, lemon and basil perfectly complimented that strong fishiness.

From a large wine list with limited by-the-glass options, I had a dry Nobilo Poverty Bay chardonnay ($9.50) and my companion chose a TW viognier ($11), which was fruity with a hint of aniseed on the nose.

Unfortunately, the evening started to fall apart a bit at this point. Our waiter—who had been friendly and knowledgeable—impressed me when he memorised our order, but it turned out he forgot our rocket salad ($6.90).

He offered profuse apologies, which eventually seemed insincere when the salad still didn’t arrive and we had to remind him a second time. More profuse apologies from the maitre d’—and a promise not to charge us for the salad or coffee.

The salad, in fact, was worth the wait: beautifully crisp rocket and a few slivers of red onion dressed lightly with lemon. Those coffees (and a shot of sambuca—also not charged for on the bill) went down well.

I’m prepared to believe that this experience was not indicative of the typical standard of service at Banque, and the good food and willingness to make amends certainly point to that.