Outside a buzzing newly-opened Parnell bar is a line-up of Mercedes, Audis and higher-specced Volkswagens. Wow, it’s like the 1980s all over again. Somebody pass me my Echo and the Bunnymen cassette.

Back in the decade of post-punk, big basslines, and even bigger hair, York St was the archetypal Parnell neighbourhood bar. Now the heritage-listed building that was originally home to a coffee merchant has been reborn as the Redbrick Kitchen & Bar. Judging by a busy Tuesday night, it looks set to be as important to the people of Parnell as York St was a couple of decades back.

Because it’s a heritage-listed building, the interior is pretty much intact. That means warm wooden floors and exposed bricks, and spacious high ceilings bringing in lots of light. A steady stream of punters is transferring to the restaurant area next door, but we’re perfectly happy to linger in the cosmopolitan bar. That’s what four different tapas, Little Creatures’ mighty Pale Ale, and an expertly-mixed Margarita will do. Stella and Macs are also on tap, and the winelist includes more than a few, hard to find, interesting choices. It’s especially strong on Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Reisling, all good reasons to come back in the near future for dinner.

Our tapas arrive courtesy of a willowy, European waitress – German-Russian, but born in Kazakhstan apparently – and while they’re not as good as the Pale Ale or margarita, for just thirty bucks for four different tastes, they’re excellent value. A few others punters, contentedly eating and lounging on leather sofas, obviously have the same opinion.

Standouts are the salt and pepper squid, risotto balls, and Parma ham with melon, but the promised grape slaw served with prawns turns out to be just a fairly dull huddle of iceberg lettuce.

Still, it’s a minor criticism of a visit where the service has been great, and the ambience suitably grown-up and cosmopolitan. Just two months after opening, the Redbrick Kitchen & Bar is obviously getting lots of positive word-of-mouth, and thoroughly deserves its inevitable transition to become a Parnell institution.

We’ll be back for dinner.

Maybe even in a Volkswagen with Simple Minds on the stereo.

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