3 Enfield Street,
Mt Eden
Auckland,


(09) 630 3055 

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3 out of 5

When we arrived at the quiet Horse & Trap one midweek evening, a menu was waiting on each table, so we started choosing our food as soon as we picked our spot. But there was not a waiter in sight. Should we order at the bar?

Before long, a bartender passed by and casually started attending to our needs. This friendly, responsive, but not super-efficient service was maintained throughout the meal.

Drinks first. My companion chose Drylands pinot gris ($9.50) from a comprehensive wine list made up mostly of other uncommon sub-labels from New Zealand’s larger wineries.

I had a bottle of Monteith’s Baltic porter ($8.50)—a rich, spicy limited-production brew from the brand which is plastered all over the signage here. All the tap beers are Monteith’s too.

Most of the clientele were pairs having a quiet drink at the oak tables which are an agreeable match for the wood-beamed interior of what was once a warehouse.

Beside us were the only other diners—a gaggle of twenty-something office workmates who grazed their way though the menu which is divided into nibbles (mostly deep fried), platters (dips, cheese, cold cuts), light meals, salads, mains, sides and desserts.

Our neighbours yelped with delight at their char-grilled squid rings ($15.50). Our grilled strips of Turkish bread ($6.50) came with a thick, pasty hummus whose blandness was salvaged by a topping of pesto.

My companion liked her main of gnocchi ($19.50). The little potato dumplings were dressed with char-grilled spring vegetables, tomato and pumpkin, on a puddle of sweet capsicum sauce. She said the portion was just right.

My wild venison, mushroom and Monteith’s Black pie ($16.50) was baked in a ceramic dish. A layer of cheese added richness and bite to the honestly traditional gravy. It was let down, however, by a less than generous helping of meat and mushrooms, and a flaccidly wimpy pastry top. Chunky fries came on the side.

We shared a dessert of lemon meringue pie ($9.50), which was mass-manufactured, but made a nice sticky-sweet end to the meal nonetheless. A ball of sorbet which had been flavoured with flakes of real mint leaf went down well too.

For a pub which aims to maintain a good kitchen, the Horse & Trap balances adequately pub grub with more upmarket white-plate cuisine.