Good things come to those who wait, and the wait for Ponsonby’s newest bistro to re-open again after Christmas has definitely been worthwhile.

We tried to make it into Ella Café & Lounge in the mad weeks leading up to Christmas, but it just didn’t happen. Now we’ve secured a spot on their first night back for 2010. Judging by the number of first name regulars also streaming in, we’re not the only ones who’ve been looking forward to this night.

Ella occupies the spot – just a few doors along from the Long Room – that used to be Season Café, and was most recently the Mediterranean eatery Shesh Besh. In keeping with owner’s French roots and Ponsonby’s heritage feel, the interior is a cosy collage of warm colours, old cookbooks, and photographs of family and friends. A sly hint of colonial Asia is introduced with graceful palms, antiques and teak furniture.

Everything is priced under $30 for mains and around $10-12 for entrees, with the emphasis on well-prepared classic dishes. From Ella’s website, I’ve been looking forward to the chef’s signature Szechwan salt and pepper squid, but unfortunately it’s missing from the new just-launched menu. Instead I settle for stuffed baby squid with capsicum and lemon, ($12.50). Equally French, Italian and Spanish – let’s just call it Mediterranean OK? – the tender morsels are beautifully cooked and crammed with a zingy, spicy mixture perfectly at home in Barcelona, Naples or Marseille.

For our mains, we head further north for a well-executed example of a Central European classic. My veal schnitzel ($25) is tender and coated in crunchy breadcrumbs mixed with parmesan. The accompanying potato salad has just the right amount of tang. It’s simple dish, but very, very well executed. A glass of nicely dry Greenough Nelson Riesling ($10) is just the ticket. Carol’s eye fillet ($27) with a green peppercorn sauce and hassleback potatoes is again simple bliss, with the crispy Swedish-style grilled potatoes crammed with parmesan and paprika. Delicious, but don’t go looking for the Heart Foundation tick on this one.

Dessert-wise we’re back to one dish and two spoons, and share a plate of the zabaglione ($12) The Italian dessert packed with eggs and brandy or Masala wine is usually served in a glass, but this version utilises a torte or cake base. The filling is wonderfully unctuous, and there’s a definite sting of booze in their somewhere. A glass of Church Road Noble Semillon with hokey-pokey butterscotch tones is a great dessert wine combination.

It’s been an excellent meal with simple classic dishes prepared with flair and passion. A return visit for Ella’s signature Sunday lunchtime roast is looking like a distinct option.

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