SKYCITY Auckland,
91 Federal Street,
Auckland Central
Auckland,
1010

(09) 363 6301

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4 out of 5

In its advertising, SkyCity is at pains to point out that Bellota’s tapas are “the most authentic” in Auckland.

I have never been to Spain, but one of my companions had, and her first reaction was that the tapas bars she visited in San Sebastiàn were scungy, and Bellota is fancy.

Upbeat Latin music wafts through the atmosphere, retro light fittings dangle from the ceiling and leather-upholstered booths are separated by dark-wood screens.

We were ushered to a booth furnished with a low bench, coffee table and two movable leather cubes. It didn’t take long to figure out that this would mean an awkward dinner for four, so we scooted across to a booth with a higher table. During the evening other groups did likewise, while couples got snug in the first option.

Tapas are all about relaxing with tasty, simple bar food.

From the wine list made up only of imported drops, two of us had Lustau Papirusa manzanilla ($6 each) which is a reliably refined example of dry sherry. The other two had Spanish reds: a Torres Sangre de Toro grenache ($10.50) and a Luzon organic monastrell ($9.50).

In a thorough sampling of the menu we found contrasting flavours and textures—the perfect bar snack—in mashed artichoke on crisp toasted bread with a dollop of strong black olive paste and topped with pert micro-greens ($7).

Ceviche ($12.50) was the classic South-American lemon-marinated fish with chilli and coriander. Nuggety rice fritters ($9) were not as cheesy as the menu promised. Patatas bravas ($8) were the most perfect potato wedges you’ll ever find, served with a spicy tomato sauce. Coca ($6), described as Spanish pizza, were medallions of spongy, salty dough topped with ham, feta, courgette and mint. Cockles ($10) were stewed with chorizo to produce a strong, rich, earthy flavour.

Our favourite of the night were deep-fried pork dumplings ($9), boldly flavoured with smoked paprika.

Desserts were outstanding. The orange-almond cake ($8.50) was a dense, moist slice topped with thick cream. Three figs ($7.50) were stewed in honey, and the torrija ($7.50) was a cream-soaked square of white bread, wrapped in a sliver of mango and served in a bath of almond-infused soy milk.

Worried about all these Spanish words? The menu explains each dish in full, and the waiters are fully informed and trained to be patient.

Service was occasionally mistimed, but polite enough that this didn’t spoil the evening. Another minor annoyance was that most of the items came in twos or threes—difficult to divvy up when you’re a group of four.

The four of us were full enough to pass on the imported Spanish ham (two types—the expensive is $30 for 50 grams). This satisfying meal cost a relatively good-value total of $152.50.

Does it matter if the tapas are authentic? Consultant chef Peter Gordon, whose name appears on the marquee, introduces his menu with a disclaimer: he has taken the liberty to use some non-Spanish ingredients. But we’re in Auckland, so if taro chips help us relax and enjoy the evening, that’s fine by me.